Costume making

I have dabbled in costume making. I currently have an 18th century stays and under shift set which im going to add bum pas, petty coats and dress too eventually. Being plus size unfortunately fabric cost is a factor. Its just simple math that i need more fabric than a slim person. So this then begs do i go authentic linen and wool or a cheaper cotton?

I'm leaning at this point towards the longer viking costume. I just really like the femininity about it. There are plenty of how to's online thanks to its popularity at the moment. Its also a very simple design. Back then there were no machines to make clothes for you and being as most of your time was spent working they alos didnt have the complex embroidery of the later medevil period. They were practical, warm garments designed to be adapted to the weather and easy to put on.

We also dont know alot about this period as most of the archeological finds have simply degraded from being burred for so long. But what we have decided is that women would wear a long under gown, simple tube sleeves with a gusset under the arm and gussets in the dress bottom to give a bit of flare. Then an over dress was made much the same way but was the colorful element of the outfit. This was wool in winter or linen in summer. They also may have had an apron dress rather than an over dress. This was just a tube of fabric held in place with straps which were attached with decorative broaches. Men's tunics were made the same way but were very high cut in the throat, women's were also high cut but often had a split held in place by a pin at the neck possibly for easier breastfeeding.

They didnt have cloaks so much as a blanket drapped over their shoulders held in place with a pin. Or a hood made to just cover the head and shoulders. From these outfits though there is alot of variation depending on if you go forward or back in time. Back seems to bring more of the drapped very basic style where as forward brings you to a more fitted decorative style.

Then we come to socks, yes socks. They havent found any evidence of them but a popular style was the leg wrap, basically wrapping a strip of wool around your leg and securing. Or you can do something called Nilbinding which is a very early style of knitting where you make knots with a single wooden needle. Very secure and sturdy method.
So next step is to narrow down my choices and pick a style, at least for my first dress then i can build up from there.

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